Soup Up My Soup

Food and Stuff


Leave a comment

Pork Lion with Dijon Mustard (Filet de Cochon a la Dijonnaise)

I don’t cook a lot of pork but came across this recipe so thought I’d give it a shot and thought it was pretty good.

When cooking recipes that call for pork loin, make sure you figure out if you need to be using pork center cut loin or tenderloin. The latter is much smaller, tender, and cooks faster. For this recipe, you are using the center cut loin and will be braising for about 45 minutes in total. Keep a meat thermometer nearby if possible and make sure you don’t cook much past 141 degrees Fahrenheit/60 degrees Celsius. You can cook pork to a medium rare or medium temperature,  it doesn’t have to taste like a hockey puck.

You could alter this recipe to use tenderloin, however because tenderloin is fairly tender (the name ain’t lyin to ya), it’s not a meat that lends itself to braising. Braising is usually done with tougher cuts of meat. What you could do is sear the tender loin, add all the liquids, and then put in the over for about 12-15 minutes at 400. That should do it.

Pork Cut Sheet

 

If you are getting pork from a supermarket, you’re likely to only see pork loins cut into thin pieces which are then fried like a steak. This happened to me so I asked the butcher to cut me out a long strip instead. This allows for better cooking through braising.

IMG_0725

 

Ingredients

  • pork loin, center cut, 2.5 lbs
  • onion, 1 medium, chopped
  • stock, veal or chicken, 1 cup
  • whipping or heavy cream, 1 cup
  • rosemary, a handful
  • dijon, 3 tbsp
  • salt and pepper to taste

Steps

  1. Brown the pork loin on all sides using butter or clarified butter, a couple minutes on each side, and set aside
  2. Chop a medium onion and saute it in the pan for a few minutes. Deglaze the pan with white wine or a white port. Make sure you get all the scrapings off the bottom in the pan so they will be properly incorporated into the sauce. Return the pork to the pan, cover and cook on low heat on the stove for 30 mins.
  3. Add the chicken or veal stock and cook for another 5 minutes.
  4. Add the cream and cook for a final 10 minutes.
  5. A few minutes before you’re done and about to serve, add the dijon mustard and incorporate into the liquid. You might find you want to add more than 3 tbsp to get more of a mustard-y kick.
  6. To serve, place the pork pieces onto a plate, and spook some of the sauce on top. Have enough on the plate that you can dip the pork pieces onto the sauce

IMG_0727

Advertisements


Leave a comment

Sauce Bordelaise

Bordelaise just refers to something that comes from Bordeaux, and this sauce is great for profiling wine from the region, if you decide to use it. An interesting fact about French cuisine is that the are actually only two red wine-based derivative brown sauces (sauces that use demi-glace and red wine), whereas there are several that use white wine exclusively. The second, Meurette Sauce, comes from Burgundy. Perhaps it’s not a coincidence that the two most notable regions in France for red wine are the ones that have a sauce that uses it.

According to the 1961 edition of the French food encyclopedia Larousse Gastronomique, Sauce Bordelaise simply refers to white, and then later red wine, as well as marrowbone fat. This differs somewhat to more modern definitions, which generally define the sauce as sautéed shallots with a red wine and then once the wine has been sufficiently reduced, finishing it with some butter for taste and thickening. You can see versions here and here. (Note: if you clicked on those links, notice in the video the chef added sugar to counterbalance the acidity of the wine, and in the second link, the Wikepedia page, calls for adding demi-glace to the sauce).

Although the above video is probably a more traditional version of the sauce, I much prefer sauce Bordelaise as it appears in James Peterson’s Sauces, 3rd edition. I don’t much like sauces that are too thin when poured over a protein such as steak, and I prefer sauces to be smooth over having chunks of shallots in them (most of the time). Just a preference though, not claiming that the below recipe is the proper or the best one.

A couple notes on the ingredients. You can buy demi-glace at most upscale grocery stores, and many butchers will make and sell it. If you don’t mind paying 7 bucks for a cup of it, you can purchase it at Cumbrae’s in Toronto. If you’re keen to use marrow instead of butter, you’ll want to call ahead to make sure the place you’re going to look for it has it. I buy bags of bones from places like Sanagan’s Meat Locker (same location as the old European Meats on Baldwin in Kensington), and will cook with them. I like butter in sauces just as much though.

Ingredients:

  • red wine, 1 cup
  • demi-glace (can be veal, beef or chicken), 3/4 cup
  • minced shallots, 2 tbsp
  • black pepper, crushed, 1 tsp
  • dried thyme, 1 pinch
  • bay leaf, 1/2 leaf
  • red wine vinegar, 2 tsp
  • cognac (if you have it), 2 tsp
  • beef marrow cubes or cold butter, 1 1/2 ounce

Steps

  1. Combine the red wine and demi, along with the shallots, pepper, thyme, and bay leaf and simmer gently until reduced by about half.
  2. Strain the mixure into a clean saucepan with a fine mesh strainer (or whatever you normally use).
  3. whisk in the vinegar (and Cognac if you have it), simmer for 30 seconds, then add the marrow or butter. Season with salt to taste.

IMG_0444

IMG_0446

IMG_0448

IMG_0449

IMG_0451

IMG_0455

IMG_0453

IMG_0458